Ooh la la! Le Louvre!

We visited The Louvre today, and it is magnificent. The palace alone is amazing, and we spent some time wandering outside marveling at the architecture.

We took a guided highlights tour, which I would highly recommend, as it is overwhelming from the moment you step in. Our guide, Carolina, was fabulous. She gave a lot of history of the building first as we made our way through the crowds. The Louvre Palace was originally built in the 12th century as a defensive castle and became the primary royal residence in 1546. It was redesigned and added onto a number of times, especially under Henry II. The fireplace bears his "H" in the center. Louis XIV moved the royal residence to Versailles in 1682, and the Louvre Palace became the place to display the royal collection, becoming an official museum in 1793 with 537 paintings, allowing the public free access three days a week. The collection expanded under Napoleon, who basically stole whatever he wanted. After his abdication, most of the stolen work was returned, and the collection was increased legitimately under the reigns of Louis XVIII and Charles X and during the Second Empire. Check out those marble floors!

It was helpful to have Carolina's narration to help us understand what we were seeing--I retained approximately 50%... So many amazing pieces!

This small dragon sculpture has a wagging tongue--constantly moving for 400+ years. No one knows why!

I was particularly touched by the Domenico Ghirlandaio portrait of An Old Man and a Boy.

The two St Jean the Baptiste portraits are the same model, a student of Leonardo da Vinci. The larger is attributed to da Vinci and Franco Melzi while studying with da Vinci. The smaller is da Vinci's last painting.

Carolina talked a bit about the difference between important works and popular ones, this beautiful "Portrait of Baldassare Castiglione" by Raphael, being important. The eyes follow you--crazy. Also crazy--no one standing looking at it, contrasting the crowds around the popular works.

So apparently there was an argument in the 1500s as to which was more important, painting or sculpture. Daniele da Volterra also made a terracotta sculpture of his "The Battle of David and Goliath" to show the merits of both.

This painting was done on slate and the frame is set upon a pedastal that turned, showing both the front and back of the subject. High-tech 16th century entertainment!

And here she is! The popular piece we all came to see!

"The Wedding at Cana" by Paolo Verenese is the largest painting in The Louvre at 22' 2.5" x 32' 9". It was stolen by Napoleon, cut into 7 pieces and then put back together here. When most of the stolen art was returned, this piece was too large, so the French made a trade with Italy and here it remains.

One of the things we enjoyed most about having a guide was the benefit of the explanation of pieces that we wouldn't necessarily see otherwise. It was fascinating the hear her breakdown the details. Because most were illiterate, art was really the means of message, education, and propaganda. With the move to French Impressionism in the late 19th century this was particularly evident.

After the tour concluded we were able to continue on and return to a few pieces we particularly liked. The arch behind Michealangelo's "Dying Slave" and "Rebellious Slave" was one of Steve's favorites. Stolen by Napoleon, as it turns out! 

The first selfie, as the joke goes. (Actually her sword broke off.)

We loved the sweet hound dog on Benvenuto Cellini's  "Fontainebleau Nymph," the sculpture that hung in Fontainebleau Chateau, the royal hunting "lodge"!

Back at "home" in the 14th Arrondissement, we wanted to try a pizza spot we noticed--we were the first ones in when they opened the doors at 7pm. It was delicious and quiet, but picking up when we left! 

And just so you know--Walter is having a great time away at doggie sleep-over camp!